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Bea's Flower "Buzz"
#11 in a series by Bea Patterson

“ The Climbing Clematis”

   
          Dear Country Gardeners, are you noticing how our summer gardens have been moving along at too fast a pace? It seems the excitement of spring peonies and iris have long ago given way to the more sun-loving plants that thrive in drier conditions. Also the big plans we had for this summer’s garden have gotten mostly completed …or not.

At this point, many of us have slowed down to a mostly-maintenance-mode, enjoying the fruits of our labors, and looking forward to the late summer/early fall blooms yet to come, as well as looking ahead to next year with new ideas, new plant combinations, better locations for this or that, remedies…you gardeners know what I am talking about.

            In that regards to next year,, I want to address three of the most often asked questions I get in the spring at the Pick-Me-Up Greenhouse. “How can I get a clematis started?” “How do I care for a clematis?” “How is clematis pronounced?”

Starting a Clematis

I learned the hard way, so now my advice to you is this: Don’t mess around with seeds or cheap plants at

the local drugstore because roots are just too young to be hardy enough. Purchase the most mature vine you can afford at a reputable nursery. The more mature plant has a well established root system (which takes 2 or 3 years by itself), and it will be strong enough to tolerate transplanting, plus the vine will more quickly start work on producing blossoms.

            However, if you want to take forever, one can harvest seedpods that have dried on the vine and plant them outdoors in the fall. My “Sweet Autumn” sends out little shoots from the roots, so I am trying that this summer.

Choose the Right Clematis for Your Needs

Purchase the variety that best meets your requirements of available light and desired blooming season.Clematis are classified in three groups: Group 1 (or A) = spring bloomers  Group 2 (or B) = summer bloomers Group 3 (or C) = late summer/early autumn bloomers. Be  sure you find the above information before you make a purchase.

Planting Tips

  • `          Be sure the soil is rich and loose so the ground won’t pack down hard and strangle the poor roots; they like to free range.

  • `          Pick a location where the soil drains well. Clematis doesn’t want to be standing in water because it is in a low spot.

  • `          The vine needs to have its “feet protected,” that is, plant other low growing flowers close to the base so roots are sheltered, still allowing tops to be in the sun. Or, mulch around the base to within 7”–8” of the crown.

  • `          Clematis climbs by twining its leaf stems around the support.  Therefore, the support needs to be intertwined (if using a standard board trellis, say) with thin, knotted twine, string, or nylon fishing line to allow the leaf stem to grab and twist around it. 

  • Like most vines, clematis takes two, three, or more seasons to really produce a good flower display, so, please be patient – the wait will be well worth it!!

Growing Tips

            Clematis benefits from pruning. Pruning should be done according to what group the clematis belongs, as mentioned above:Group 1 } When needed, should be pruned after blooming. Re-growth can then occur over the summer and again be well established before cold weather. Group 2 } Flowering is enhanced if cut back 6 to 8 inches to a pair of strong buds in March.Group 3 } Prune yearly in March to 12” from the ground. The vine will rapidly re-generate and be in full bloom by late summer/early fall. Don’t know to which group your clematis belongs? Observe the plant for a year and decide accordingly.    

Question #3

            How does one pronounce clematis? From the best I can figure out, how you pronounce it depends on where you are from. Clematis came to America mostly from England, so some pronunciations are thereby influenced. But either cle-MA-tis or CLEM-atis or CLEM-uh-tiss is correct. I prefer cle-MAT-tis; feels best on the tongue.  Klema is from the Greek meaning “a twig.” They are also called “Wire Lotus,” “Travelers-Joy,” and “Virgin’s Bower.”

Sweet  Autumn  Clemantis

My favorite clematis is one I didn’t even know was a clematis until friend Phyllis Davis identified it for me. I was telling her about this pretty, easy to grow vine I had transplanted from Kansas, which made wonderfully fragrant showy white blossoms in late summer/early fall, right when my garden didn’t have much else blooming. I knew it by its common names “Madeira Vine” or “Old Man’s Beard.” She knew right away it was “Sweet Autumn” (Ranunculaceae, Clematis terniflora), Group 3.

          A happy “Sweet Autumn” likes mostly sun to partial shade, needs regular watering, but doesn’t like being over watered, and responds well to hard pruning early in the spring.  Very little bothers this great vine, but always once a year, it attracts what I have come to identify as the ashgray “blister beetle” (Epicauta fabricii). A huge swarm of them appear on the vines suddenly, and if not powdered with Sevin immediately, they will chomp strip through the entire growth overnight. Other clematis varieties trellised adjacent to the Sweet Autumn are not bothered, nor anything else in my garden. Weird.  Additional pleasures with “Sweet Autumn” is the attractive foliage that performs well for flower arranging and the fuzzy, attractive spent flower pods that produce the “Old Man’s Beard” look.

           No garden is complete without a cle-MAT-is or two, or three. These awesome vines are great for providing a wide range of colors, fragrance, and camouflaging eyesores or accenting garden spaces throughout the season.

        How’s your garden growing?
Pick-Me-Up Greenhouse
Bea Patterson
bp15624@alltel.net

   

 

 

 

 

Bea's Flower "Buzz"
Tenth in a series by Bea Patterson
 

   

 

Jack-in-the-PulpiT
 

 
   
 

When gardeners have to move, fortunate are the ones who can smoothly transplant themselves as well as some of their favorite flowers. Fortunately for me, when I moved from Kansas to Nebraska, I eventually had a yard in which to move what I considered to be a piece of “home”, the Jack-in the Pulpit.

            I had originally obtained the Jacks from the timbered area located on our family farm in Kansas. Much to my surprise, they took root and each year got bigger and better. The same thing happened when I moved a few to my Peru garden. They have not only grown, they have prospered. Each year, they shoot up in the middle of spring. Each year, I have more plants than before, and each year, when the older more established ones grow to full height, they often reach three feet tall or more and have leaves that span two feet.

            Jack-in-the Pulpits are native to wet woodlands and heavily foliaged areas from Nova Scotia to Minnesota and southward to Florida and Texas, so Kansas and Nebraska do not have exclusive rights to this exotic looking group. The location at my home replicates these conditions around our Big Spruce tree on the east side of our house. The Jacks get full shade most of the day and grow in organic clay soil that stays fairly moist most of the time.

            Now when I say they “shoot up,” I mean it. You can practically stand and watch them grow. Overnight, a stalk will gain 1” or more. The stem starts out as a pointy looking, slick brownish purple worm, bare of any leaves. As it grows, gradually two basal leaves (sometimes only one) develop and unwrap itself from the stalk; each leaf is divided into three almost equal large parts. Then follows the formation of the “flower,” which consists of a delicately colored green and purple striped spathe (the pulpit) surrounding and arching over a slightly greenish, slightly striped spadix (Jack).

            All too soon, the Jack dies back down to the ground right after flowering, usually leaving a rather shriveled stalk bearing a berry bundle from what had been the Jack. The berries start out a bright dark green then turn intense red by fall. 

            By next spring, underground tubers or “corms” will have spread, yielding more plants. The seed bundle can also be used to propagate new plants, although it takes longer.

            Jack-in-the-Pulpit (Arisaema triphyllum) carries other monikers: “Indian Turnip,” “Bog Onion,” “Brown Dragon,” and “Starchwort.” It is a North American wildflower of the arum family (Araceae) noted for their unusual shaped flowers.

            Early native Americans are said to have used the Jack for medicinal purposes. Although no part of the fresh plant should be taken internally (it causes extreme pain), when dried or cooked first, the root was used as a vegetable. A salve reportedly was used to treat sore eyes, skin infections, and swelling.  From the corm, a preparation was said to have been used to treat stomach gas, asthma, and rheumatism.

            Jack-in-the-Pulpits can now be purchased from commercial nurseries, so either from nature or from the nursery, I would recommend obtaining some starts to add to your plants collection. Jacks are fairly easy to get started (apparently), are so beautifully unusual and exotic looking, deer resistant, use spaces in a cultivated garden that other flowers snub their leaves at, and really require no more care than to keep them watered.  You can understand why I personally am so fond of them - they remind me of my Kansas farm and the wooded hills I so enjoy, so similar to the Peru area. 

            Turning over another leaf: The greenhouse season has closed for partner Betsy Reed, my husband John, and myself, but we want to thank all of you who patronized our little shop in Peru and came to enjoy our garden flowers (blooms from which we shared with many a customer); our patrons have again helped us through another successful year.
 

How’s your garden growing?
Pick-Me-Up Greenhouse
Bea Patterson
bp15624@alltel.net

 

 

 

Bea's Flower "Buzz"
Ninth in a series by Bea Patterson
 

 

 

 Grandmother’s Bonnet


  The  Columbine

 
   
 

Welcome, Country Gardeners, to spring and our exploding world of sights, sounds and smells! Again, the earth is abloomin’, according to God’s plan!

The very cool columbine (Genus Aquilegia, Family Ranunculaceae) is such an easy going/growing beauty that it was an easy choice for this series.  Its name is rooted in its distinctive appearance.  Aquilegia is from the Latin Iaquila for “eagle," referring to the flower’s spurs, which suggest an eagle’s talons. Others suggest it is from the Latin for aquarins meaning “a water carrier,” because of the resemblance to ancient jars that held water or agui legus “to draw water.”    Ranuculaceae are the perennials which belong to the buttercup family.

          Columbine, the familiar name, comes from the Latin columba, meaning dove. Held upside down, one can imagine a ring of doves bobbing about and drinking from a dish.   Others suggest the bloom looks like a court jester’s cap or old-fashioned bonnet, resulting in another common name “Granny’s Bonnet,” the name that spoke to me for this illustration.

          The “spur” on a Columbine is one of its most distinctive parts. In the botanical world, a spur is a hollow, elongated tube extending from the petals or sepals of certain flowers. It is usually a reservoir for nectar, which is secreted by special glands inside the tube and collects in a knobby bulge at the base. The nectar is stored in those small knobs at the ends of the spurs.  One state, Colorado, has chosen the Columbine for its state flower, which is appropriate, as it is frequently found in forests and on rather rocky/spare terrain. 

          Historically, Columbines are often featured in old paintings, fabrics, architecture, and art work because of the dove imagery, a symbol of peace for the Holy Spirit.  For my own part, I became even more impressed with the Columbine as I learned to draw the intricacy of its blooms and leaves - how the spurs grow between the sepals, attach to the stem, the lovely shading of colors and contrasting color combinations, and the bright feathery stamen, not to mention beautifully shaped leaves.

          My own garden is enhanced with lots of the beautiful common forest variety, as well as a few of the newer varieties. They come up so early in the season, bloom a long time, propagate themselves so easily, and are so beautiful and hardy, what’s not to love? 

          Columbines in the greenhouse are gorgeous this season – each perfect bloom, five sepals and five spurs with dark throats, bobbing on their delicate looking stems. Colors range from white on white, to white and pink, to raspberry and white, to white and blue.

God’s creativity is clearly illustrated in the Columbine.

Turning over a completely new leaf and another topic,  we have a limited supply of Heirloom Tomatoes this year.
 

How’s your garden growing?
Pick-Me-Up Greenhouse
Bea Patterson
bp15624@alltel.net

 

 

Bea's Flower "Buzz"
Seventh in a series by Bea Patterson

 

“Bedding Plants -
 Fast Food for Gardens” 

Remember planting seeds? Remember waiting half the summer before they started to bloom?

Anxious gardeners don’t have to wait anymore. These days, large numbers of bloom-ready “bedding plants” are available.. For the price of an inexpensive four-pack of  “bedding plants,” a garden, border, sidewalk, porch, planter, or container can go from no color to color, bare to blooming, instantly filled with pretty posies and greenery before the weather hardly gets warm – instant gratification.

Availability is no longer a problem either. Practically every place we already drive to now has bedding plants for sale. Grocery stores sell plants – because they are edible? Pharmacies sell plants – because they are medicinal? Hardware stores sell plants – because gardens need outside watering faucets? I can understand florists selling plants – at least flowers are their business, although how to grow them probably isn’t. Just drive up, make your selection, take them home, plant them, and voilla – instant color - fast food for gardens. The Pick-Me-Up Greenhouse partners prefer to believe that patronizing an actual garden store makes more sense (knowledgeable clerks), and easy stop and shop is still an option.

Some may ask how I would define “bedding plants.” Bedding plants are generally annuals that are born and bred to last one growing season. One can sprinkle in early blooming perennials, but then they are spent until next spring. So “bedding plants” are defined and selected on the basis of their ability to bloom more or less consistently throughout the spring and summer and into fall, hopefully. Typically, they aren’t used to fill a garden but to fill-in a garden, added accents among bigger plants or as transitional color between plants blooming at different times, or fillers in small places (often still in their pots), or to provide color while bulbs or other plants are gradually filling in the garden.  

 Just to throw in a little confusion, some annuals re-seed themselves and so grow the next season, or they are hardy enough and the winter is mild enough that the plant doesn’t die and they over-winter. But, I wouldn’t count on that happening in our zone very often.

What should you look for? Always look for healthy plants and have some knowledge of what to expect from specific plants. Are they sun or shade lovers? Do they like sandy soil? Do they like morning sun but sun protection in the afternoon (when the day is the hottest – so means plant them on the east side of the house)? Do they thrive bunched up with other plants or do they prefer their space? When selecting flowers in early spring, remember these are usually the annuals that like cooler weather to begin with, and that’s why they are blooming right now. Although they will bloom throughout the growing season to some degree, most of these varieties will thrive again when the weather gets cooler in later summer or if we have a cool summer. Pansies are an example, as are Dahlberg daisies and alyssum. So don’t give up on them just because they slow down through the hottest part of the summer. Just plant other colorful, warmth-loving annuals amongst them or let the taller perennials provide some protection until then.

On the other hand, a few featured spring annuals will bloom early, but really thrive when the weather gets warmer, like marigolds and rose moss (portulacca). I have come to realize that the hardy and very popular petunia has its quirks along these lines. Petunias are forcibly encouraged to be blooming by the start of the season, but then they languish and get leggy. If you have the courage to prune them back rather severely when you first get them, which allows the plant to bush out and re-grow during the cooler part of the spring, you’ll be rewarded by the time the weather gets warm. The petunias will have had time to become re-established and really pop. And, try as I do, I haven’t found a petunia that likes (thrives) in shade.

Hanging baskets, too, need to be selected with the idea in mind that just because they are blooming in April, doesn’t mean all plants in the basket are going to thrive all summer. Plan on re-placing some of the plants at some point to keep the basket looking fresh.  Geraniums can’t hardly be beat, though, but if you are tired of the red geraniums (gorgeous and classic), try another color or unusual hybrids (simple to fancy blooms, variegated greens to leaves with color or ruffles).

A Sunday afternoon feature new to the Pick-Me-Up Greenhouse this year will be the “Build It Yourself” option. Folks can bring their pots and/or containers (or you can pick from our selection), your potting soil (or we’ll sell you some good quality potting soil), select plant material to meet your needs and color palettes (from our shelves, mixing and matching, getting one or six, etc.), and pot everything right there in our new potting shed area. Fast Food for the Garden(er). What could be easier than that!

Oddly, as I sit writing this piece, snow is drifting down on the already white covered landscape outside by studio window. But I know spring is just around the corner because the robins are home, the daffodils and tulips are four inches above the ground (some blooming), the bud bumps on trees are showing, and the brown ground is growing a green beard.

 I know you are out looking for signs of spring, too, so keep thinking flowers - those wonderful colors, that special.smell, getting our hands in the dirt…. ah-h-h. 

For lucky me, all of that wonderful plantness is super concentrated when the greenhouse gets packed full of plant material, and then I get to open the door and take it all in. On warm, rainy days (water gently pit-patting on the glass roof), and it’s quiet, I enjoy just sitting there among the hanging baskets and other plants and imagine what it must have been like in the Garden of Eden.  

How’s your garden growing?
Bea Patterson
bp15624@alltel.net

*****   *****   *****

Bea's Flower "Buzz"
Sixth in a series by Bea Patterson


“The Flower of Luv – the Rose”

 

“Some people are always grumbling because roses have thorns. I am thankful that thorns have roses.”

 Henry Van Dyke  

Remember the phrase “And the survey said…” from the old television game show? As our Pick-Me-Up Greenhouse geared up for the season one spring, I got to thinking that it would be interesting to find out what flowers are the most popular with our customers. So, I initiated an informal survey and kept a separate tally of responses from men and women. When asked what they considered to be their favorite flower, “the survey said….the rose!” Among the men, it was about the only one nominated, but  for women, the rose usually came in somewhere in their top five.   

One of my theories is that generally men don’t know many flower names to begin with so maybe the rose was named because of familiarity (having been noted so often on the memo line of checkbooks).

Be that as it may, beyond loving the rose, responses did not point to a consensus on what colors or kinds were the most popular – practically everything was mentioned. But, I’ll take the survey results at face value, and declare Rosa rosaceae the winner! and will not contest its supremacy because roses are truly beautiful, versatile, and highly recognizable.

What’s not to love? Roses have great attributes: mega gorgeous color ranges, heavenly fragrances (sources for perfumes), lots of “looks” (simple to fancy), are location adaptable (specimen roses in cutting gardens, climbing roses for gazebo or trellis, shrub types for fences, hedge, or as accents, miniatures for patios and pots), practically care-free to picky special needs roses, useful in crafts and home décor (potpourri, decorations, flower arranging). And they aren’t just pretty faces; they are used medicinally in salves, lotions, teas, etc., and birds like the rose hips to feed from in the winter.  

Roses come with quite a history. According to fossil evidence, the rose existed as far back as 35 million years ago.  Genus Rosa has 150 species spread throughout the Northern Hemisphere, from Alaska to Mexico and including northern Africa. The name refers to its color; rosa is Latin for “red.” The Persian word for rose, gul, also meant “flower” and was close to ghut, the word for “spirit.”

Roses were used as symbols of war, love, beauty, and politics. During the 15th century, the rose was used as a symbol for the factions fighting to control England. The white rose symbolized York, and the red rose symbolized Lancaster; as a result, the conflict became known as the “War of the Roses.”

At one time roses or rose water was used as legal tender, as barter, and for payments. In ancient times, exotic roses were used in erotic pagan love rites and symbolized excessiveness and privileges of the rich. As Christianity developed, the rose came to symbolize mystical and spiritual love, was connected with the Virgin Mary and with Christ’s blood, and with the crown of thorns.

Roses are still associated with romantic love, hope, and even the mystery of life itself.  Interestingly, certain roses have become linked with specific attributes. I’ll just mention a few: Dog rose - pleasure & pain; Green rose – Indicates “I am from Mars.” (Wonder where how that one came about); Leaf rose – Indicates “You may hope.”; lavender rose – enchantment; pink rose – perfect happiness, secret love, grace and sweetness, indecision; dark pink rose – thankfulness; peach rose – immortality, modesty; red rose – Indicates “I love you… respect you… think you are beautiful.”; tea rose – Indicates “I’ll always remember.”; single full bloom roses – Indicates “I truly love you.”; bouquet of full bloom roses – gratitude; one yellow rose with 11 red ones - love and passion; dark crimson rose – mourning.  One of the first roses native to Europe was the Apothecary rose or Rosa gallica. Healers used them to cure everything from barrenness to dog bites. Also, the yellow rose came to Europe from Persia. China roses came to Europe in the 18th century and were very popular because they bloomed continually. Among these were the tea roses, which did not smell like tea but were shipped in boxes along with tea.  After being cross-bred with Hybrid Perpetuals, this variety eventually became the basis of nearly all our modern roses.  

Five of the main rose categories are outlined below.

        
Hybrid tea roses – tall, long-stemmed roses; flowers one to a stem;  in gardens, usually featured in cutting gardens or as single specimen plants. 

             Floribundas – large, showy blossoms; blooms more freely, setting clusters of blossoms on a stem; good for border planting.

            Shrub roses – naturally disease resistance; grow in a variety of climates and settings with a minimum of care; grows compactly; very little pruning required; bloom consistently over a very long season

           Ground cover – low growing and cascades over walls or as ground covers in perennial gardens; great at edge of beds and in containers.

          Climbing roses – produce long canes that can be trained to a trellis, fence or other support

While roses have a well-deserved picky reputation, plan ahead to maximize your enjoyment of rose gardening.

1.   Select varieties that are appropriate to our Zone #5A.

2.   Select a spot with at least six hours of sun in the day, preferable where the plants will get early morning sun so the leaves will dry off early in the day, thereby minimizing diseases problems.

3.   Select a spot that provides good air circulation, which will also help minimize disease problems. 

4.   Test the soil and then add supplements that will enhance the needs your particular rose.

5.   Water and keep the soil moistened to a depth of 18 inches every week during the growing season. Test the ground with a screw driver or piece of wire.

6.   Fertilize two times a season: once when new growth firsts starts in the spring and again in mid-season. Choose non-burning, natural formulas that feed the soil as well as the plant.

7.   Prune and deadhead appropriately.

Pests love roses, but they can be dealt with. Remember, healthy, growing roses are more resistance to disease than struggling ones.

q       Anti-transpirants protect plants from drying out and control fungus by coating leaves.

q       A mixture of baking soda and horticultural oil helps control powdery mildew and also works on black spot:   

q       1 rounded tablespoon of baking soda and 1 tablespoon of  horticultural oil per gallon of water; spray mixture

q       once a week or after a heavy rain; apply in early morning and not at all during hottest weather because baking

q       soda can  burn leaves.

q       Sulfur-based fungicides battles fungal diseases. Don’t use when temps exceed 90F.

q       Whole Neem oil is a new product for controlling black spot, powdery mildew, and rust spots as well as many insects    and mites. Follow directions on the bottle.

q       A strong spray of water applied in the morning (so leaves will dry quickly) knocks off pests.

q       Bt (Bacillus thuringiensis) is a microbial insecticide that kills only moth and butterfly larvae and is harmless to most other insects and animals.  However, don’t spray throughout the garden or excessively. It won’t discriminate between pest caterpillars and those of desirable moths and butterflies.

q       Horticultural oil is a more highly refined version of traditional “dormant” oils applied to leafless trees and shrubs in winter.  Horticultural or “summer” oils control a wide variety of rose pests, including rose scale and whitefly, also soft-bodied pests, such as aphids and their eggs and spider mites. Don’t use this oil when temps rise about 90 degrees.

q       Insecticidal soaps work on mite and insect pests, particularly soft bodied insects such as aphids, immature scale,  leafhoppers, mites, thrips, and whiteflies.

q       Neem oil extracts provides effective control of insect pests. Neem is not harmful to most beneficial insects.

Happy Roses Day, Country Gardeners!

How’s your garden growing?

Bea Patterson

bp15624@alltel.net


______________________________________________________________________________________

"I Yearn for Yorrow"

Welcome, again, country gardeners, to #5 in this series.

Spring has sprung! We are suddenly reminded how hungry we are for lush green grass, blooming trees, colorful spring flowers, and opportunities to get out into God’s rich soil with rake and hoe.

Most gardeners have spent the winter months making plans. How early can I get in those radishes, peas, and potatoes?  What new things are in that seed catalogue that just came? Remember Mom’s white iris with its flags and falls trimmed in white? Wonder if I could find that in the heirloom garden catalogue? Wouldn’t some of those iris look really great mixed in among those yellow plants that come up in the corner garden? What do you think of putting in a water feature next to the iris? How much do you think a fountain would cost?

We all know the dreaming that takes place between gardening seasons.

Ò If you are a seasoned gardener, you have been investing in perennials over the years. When spring comes, you don’t have as much work ahead of you.  If you are new or novice gardener, you are in the building mode – worlds of choices and ideas from which to choose. 

Whichever category you fall into, YARROW has already been featured in your garden or should be.

Ò Yarrow belongs to the aster family, in the genus Achilea L., and species of Achillea millefolium L. or common yarrow, with many additional varieties associated in that species.

Native to Europe and Asia, yarrow was introduced to North America by English soldiers during the Revolutionary War. Then it spread quickly across America as people moved west.

Ò Once one gets past the scientific stuff, yarrow are perennials that can produce gold, white, yellow, red, or pink flower clusters, thrive in full sun, are drought resistant, can grow in any soil type if well-drained, propagate by seeds and root division, can reach heights of 6” to 4’, thrive in zones 3 – 10 (our area of Nebraska is zone 5 – 5A).  They have delicate fern-like green-gray foliage which also adds to the look of a garden.

Not only are they attractive, they bloom abundantly in late spring through June, and bloom moderately well throughout the summer if spent blooms are dead-headed.

Ò If you want to start yarrow from seed indoors, germination time can be from 6 to 8 days when abundant light is available. If dividing existing plants, do it in mid-spring when temperatures are fairly warm, say above 70 degrees.  However, plants takes two years to become established, so be patient.

Ò But their usefulness does not end there. The blossom heads on their long stems add punch to floral arrangements and as dried flowers, they are super for use in autumn decorations.

Yarrow can be mowed to form a highly competitive ground cover to control soil erosion.

Ò Historically, yarrow is known by many names, many of which allude to its scientific names or ways it has been used. “Milfoil” comes from its species name, which means “thousand leafed.” Even its generic name of Achillea is either linked to the Trojan wars leader Achilles, who treated his wounded soldiers with yarrow, or linked to an individual named “Achilles,” who has been credited as the “discoverer” of the plant.

Yarrow reduced inflammation and helped to stop bleeding, hence more names like “Soldier’s Herb,” “Soldier’s Wound Wort” (from the Crusades), “Knight’s Milfoil” (used for wounds incurred during jousting bouts), “Nosebleed” (leaves used as a nosebleed treatment), and “Carpenter’s Herb” (a handy natural bandage).

In Sweden, yarrow is called “Field Hop” and has been used in the manufacture of beer (hence “hop”).

Because of its fragrant aroma when the leaves are crushed, yarrow has been called “Old Man’s Pepper” and used as snuff.

Obviously, yarrow is considered a medicinal herb and therefore has been used in astringents, as a stimulant or tonic (in herbal teas), in hair shampoos (even credited to prevent baldness through regular washings), to treat burns, for toothaches (fresh leaves chewed), cramps, fevers, kidney disorders, skin irritations, snakebites, cold remedies, just to mention a few. Even a 1st century A.D. Greek physician is said to have crushed the leaves and used the poultice for skin ulcers.

Not that I have had any experience with any of these remedies, but yarrow at least has an extensive history as a natural cure-all. However, I’ll leave that to the pharmacists.

Ò So, what more could one ask of a plant? Yarrow is easy to grow in almost any sunny spot, has attractive foliage and blooms during most or all of the summer, can be used as dried flower in decorations or used as grown cover, and could even be considered a medical marvel grown in the garden.

Ò Yarrow seed packets are available in almost any store that sells seeds, but easy on-line shopping can be done at thegardenhelper.com or herbfresh.com or earlmay.com

Come on now, fellow gardeners, the fun begins, let’s go for it! Garden lovers rock!

 

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