Bea's Flower "Buzz"
#11 in a series by
Bea Patterson |
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“ The Climbing Clematis”
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Dear Country
Gardeners, are you
noticing how our
summer gardens have
been moving along at
too fast a pace? It
seems the excitement
of spring peonies
and iris have long
ago given way to the
more sun-loving
plants that thrive
in drier conditions.
Also the big plans
we had for this
summer’s garden have
gotten mostly
completed …or not.
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At this point, many
of us have slowed
down to a
mostly-maintenance-mode,
enjoying the fruits
of our labors, and
looking forward to
the late
summer/early fall
blooms yet to come,
as well as looking
ahead to next year
with new ideas, new
plant combinations,
better locations for
this or that,
remedies…you
gardeners know what
I am talking about.
In that
regards to next
year,, I want to
address three
of the most often
asked questions I
get in the spring
at the Pick-Me-Up
Greenhouse. “How can
I get a clematis
started?” “How
do I care for a
clematis?” “How
is clematis
pronounced?”
Starting a Clematis
I learned the hard
way, so now my
advice to you is
this: Don’t mess
around with seeds or
cheap plants at
the local drugstore
because roots are
just too young to be
hardy enough.
Purchase the most
mature vine you can
afford at a
reputable nursery.
The more mature
plant has a well
established root
system (which takes
2 or 3 years by
itself), and it will
be strong enough to
tolerate
transplanting, plus
the vine will more
quickly start work
on producing
blossoms.
However,
if you want to
take forever,
one can harvest
seedpods that have
dried on the vine
and plant them
outdoors in the
fall. My “Sweet
Autumn” sends out
little shoots from
the roots, so I am
trying that this
summer.
Choose the Right
Clematis for Your Needs
Purchase the variety
that best meets your
requirements of
available light and
desired blooming
season.Clematis are
classified in three
groups: Group 1 (or
A) = spring bloomers
Group 2 (or B) =
summer bloomers
Group 3 (or C) =
late summer/early
autumn bloomers.
Be sure
you find the above
information before
you make a purchase.
Planting Tips
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Be sure the soil
is rich and
loose so the
ground won’t
pack down hard
and strangle the
poor roots; they
like to free
range.
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Pick a location
where the soil
drains well.
Clematis doesn’t
want to be
standing in
water because it
is in a low
spot.
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The vine needs
to have its
“feet
protected,” that
is, plant other
low growing
flowers close to
the base so
roots are
sheltered, still
allowing tops to
be in the sun.
Or, mulch around
the base to
within 7”–8” of
the crown.
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Clematis climbs
by twining its
leaf stems
around the
support.
Therefore, the
support needs to
be intertwined
(if using a
standard board
trellis, say)
with thin,
knotted
twine, string,
or nylon fishing
line to allow
the leaf stem to
grab and twist
around it.
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Like most vines,
clematis takes
two, three, or
more seasons to
really produce a
good flower
display, so,
please be
patient – the
wait will be
well worth it!!
Growing Tips
Clematis
benefits from
pruning. Pruning
should be done
according to what
group the clematis
belongs, as
mentioned above:Group
1 } When needed,
should be pruned
after blooming.
Re-growth can then
occur over the
summer and again be
well established
before cold weather.
Group 2 }
Flowering is
enhanced if cut back
6 to 8 inches to a
pair of strong buds
in March.Group 3 }
Prune yearly in
March to 12” from
the ground. The vine
will rapidly
re-generate and be
in full bloom by
late summer/early
fall. Don’t know to
which group your
clematis belongs?
Observe the plant
for a year and
decide accordingly.
Question #3
How does
one pronounce
clematis? From
the best I can
figure out, how you
pronounce it depends
on where you are
from. Clematis came
to America mostly
from England, so
some pronunciations
are thereby
influenced. But
either cle-MA-tis or
CLEM-atis or
CLEM-uh-tiss is
correct. I prefer
cle-MAT-tis; feels
best on the tongue.
Klema is from
the Greek meaning “a
twig.” They are also
called “Wire Lotus,”
“Travelers-Joy,” and
“Virgin’s Bower.”
Sweet Autumn Clemantis
My favorite clematis
is one I didn’t even
know was a clematis
until friend Phyllis
Davis identified it
for me. I was
telling her about
this pretty, easy to
grow vine I had
transplanted from
Kansas, which made
wonderfully fragrant
showy white blossoms
in late summer/early
fall, right when my
garden didn’t have
much else blooming.
I knew it by its
common names
“Madeira Vine” or
“Old Man’s Beard.”
She knew right away
it was “Sweet
Autumn” (Ranunculaceae,
Clematis
terniflora),
Group 3.
A happy “Sweet
Autumn” likes mostly
sun to partial
shade, needs regular
watering, but
doesn’t like being
over watered, and
responds well to
hard pruning early
in the spring.
Very little bothers
this great vine, but
always once a year,
it attracts what I
have come to
identify as the
ashgray “blister
beetle” (Epicauta
fabricii). A huge
swarm of them appear
on the vines
suddenly, and if not
powdered with Sevin
immediately, they
will chomp strip
through the entire
growth overnight.
Other clematis
varieties trellised
adjacent to the
Sweet Autumn are not
bothered, nor
anything else in my
garden. Weird.
Additional pleasures
with “Sweet Autumn”
is the attractive
foliage that
performs well for
flower arranging and
the fuzzy,
attractive spent
flower pods that
produce the “Old
Man’s Beard” look.
No
garden is complete
without a cle-MAT-is
or two, or three.
These awesome vines
are great for
providing a wide
range of colors,
fragrance, and
camouflaging
eyesores or
accenting garden
spaces throughout
the season.
How’s your garden
growing?
Pick-Me-Up Greenhouse
Bea Patterson
bp15624@alltel.net
Bea's Flower "Buzz"
Tenth in a series by
Bea Patterson
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Jack-in-the-PulpiT
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When gardeners have
to move, fortunate
are the ones who can
smoothly transplant
themselves as well
as some of their
favorite flowers.
Fortunately for me,
when I moved from
Kansas to Nebraska,
I eventually had a
yard in which to
move what I
considered to be a
piece of “home”, the
Jack-in the Pulpit.
I had
originally obtained
the Jacks from the
timbered area
located on our
family farm in
Kansas. Much to my
surprise, they took
root and each year
got bigger and
better. The same
thing happened when
I moved a few to my
Peru garden. They
have not only grown,
they have prospered.
Each year, they
shoot up in the
middle of spring.
Each year, I have
more plants than
before, and each
year, when the older
more established
ones grow to full
height, they often
reach three feet
tall or more and
have leaves that
span two feet.
Jack-in-the Pulpits
are native to wet
woodlands and
heavily foliaged
areas from Nova
Scotia to Minnesota
and southward to
Florida and Texas,
so Kansas and
Nebraska do not have
exclusive rights to
this exotic looking
group. The location
at my home
replicates these
conditions around
our Big Spruce tree
on the east side of
our house. The Jacks
get full shade most
of the day and grow
in organic clay soil
that stays fairly
moist most of the
time.
Now when
I say they “shoot
up,” I mean it. You
can practically
stand and watch them
grow. Overnight, a
stalk will gain 1”
or more. The stem
starts out as a
pointy looking,
slick brownish
purple worm, bare of
any leaves. As it
grows, gradually two
basal leaves
(sometimes only one)
develop and unwrap
itself from the
stalk; each leaf is
divided into three
almost equal large
parts. Then follows
the formation of the
“flower,” which
consists of a
delicately colored
green and purple
striped spathe (the
pulpit) surrounding
and arching over a
slightly greenish,
slightly striped
spadix (Jack).
All too
soon, the Jack dies
back down to the
ground right after
flowering, usually
leaving a rather
shriveled stalk
bearing a berry
bundle from what had
been the Jack. The
berries start out a
bright dark green
then turn intense
red by fall.
By next
spring, underground
tubers or “corms”
will have spread,
yielding more
plants. The seed
bundle can also be
used to propagate
new plants, although
it takes longer.
Jack-in-the-Pulpit (Arisaema
triphyllum) carries
other monikers:
“Indian Turnip,”
“Bog Onion,” “Brown
Dragon,” and “Starchwort.”
It is a North
American wildflower
of the arum family (Araceae)
noted for their
unusual shaped
flowers.
Early
native Americans are
said to have used
the Jack for
medicinal purposes.
Although no part of
the fresh plant
should be taken
internally (it
causes extreme
pain), when dried or
cooked first, the
root was used as a
vegetable. A salve
reportedly was used
to treat sore eyes,
skin infections, and
swelling. From the
corm, a preparation
was said to have
been used to treat
stomach gas, asthma,
and rheumatism.
Jack-in-the-Pulpits
can now be purchased
from commercial
nurseries, so either
from nature or from
the nursery, I would
recommend obtaining
some starts to add
to your plants
collection. Jacks
are fairly easy to
get started
(apparently), are so
beautifully unusual
and exotic looking,
deer resistant, use
spaces in a
cultivated garden
that other flowers
snub their leaves
at, and really
require no more care
than to keep them
watered. You can
understand why I
personally am so
fond of them - they
remind me of my
Kansas farm and the
wooded hills I so
enjoy, so similar to
the Peru area.
Turning over another
leaf:
The greenhouse
season has closed
for partner Betsy
Reed, my husband
John, and myself,
but we want to thank
all of you who
patronized our
little shop in Peru
and came to enjoy
our garden flowers
(blooms from which
we shared with many
a customer); our
patrons have again
helped us through
another successful
year.
How’s your garden
growing?
Pick-Me-Up Greenhouse
Bea Patterson
bp15624@alltel.net
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Bea's Flower "Buzz"
Ninth in a series by
Bea Patterson
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Grandmother’s Bonnet
The Columbine |
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Welcome, Country
Gardeners, to spring
and our exploding
world of sights,
sounds and smells!
Again, the earth is
abloomin’, according
to God’s plan!
The very cool
columbine (Genus
Aquilegia, Family
Ranunculaceae)
is such an easy
going/growing beauty
that it was an easy
choice for this
series. Its name is
rooted in its
distinctive
appearance.
Aquilegia is from
the Latin Iaquila
for “eagle," referring
to the flower’s spurs,
which suggest an
eagle’s talons. Others
suggest it is from the
Latin for aquarins
meaning “a water
carrier,” because of
the resemblance to
ancient jars that held
water or
agui legus
“to draw water.”
Ranuculaceae
are the perennials
which belong to the
buttercup family.
Columbine,
the familiar name,
comes from the Latin
columba,
meaning dove. Held
upside down, one can
imagine a ring of
doves bobbing about
and drinking from a
dish. Others suggest
the bloom looks like a
court jester’s cap or
old-fashioned bonnet,
resulting in another
common name “Granny’s
Bonnet,” the name that
spoke to me for this
illustration.
The “spur”
on a Columbine is one
of its most
distinctive parts.
In the
botanical world, a
spur is a hollow,
elongated tube
extending from the
petals or sepals of
certain flowers. It is
usually a reservoir
for nectar, which is
secreted by special
glands inside the tube
and collects in a
knobby bulge at the
base. The nectar is
stored in those small
knobs at the ends of
the spurs. One
state, Colorado, has
chosen the Columbine
for its state flower,
which is appropriate,
as it is frequently
found in forests and
on rather rocky/spare
terrain.
Historically,
Columbines are often
featured in old
paintings, fabrics,
architecture, and art
work because of the
dove imagery, a symbol
of peace for the Holy
Spirit. For my own
part, I became even
more impressed with
the Columbine as I
learned to draw the
intricacy of its
blooms and leaves -
how the spurs grow
between the sepals,
attach to the stem,
the lovely shading of
colors and contrasting
color combinations,
and the bright
feathery stamen, not
to mention beautifully
shaped leaves.
My own
garden is enhanced
with lots of the
beautiful common
forest variety, as
well as a few of the
newer varieties. They
come up so early in
the season, bloom a
long time, propagate
themselves so easily,
and are so beautiful
and hardy, what’s not
to love?
Columbines
in the greenhouse are
gorgeous this season –
each perfect bloom,
five sepals and five
spurs with dark
throats, bobbing on
their delicate looking
stems. Colors range
from white on white,
to white and pink, to
raspberry and white,
to white and blue.
God’s creativity is
clearly illustrated in
the Columbine.
Turning over a
completely new leaf
and another topic, we
have a limited supply
of Heirloom Tomatoes
this year.
How’s your garden
growing?
Pick-Me-Up Greenhouse
Bea Patterson
bp15624@alltel.net
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Bea's Flower "Buzz"
Seventh in a series by
Bea Patterson
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“Bedding Plants
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Fast Food for
Gardens”
Remember
planting seeds?
Remember waiting
half the summer
before they
started to
bloom?
Anxious
gardeners don’t
have to wait
anymore. These
days, large
numbers of
bloom-ready
“bedding plants”
are available..
For the price of
an inexpensive
four-pack of
“bedding
plants,” a
garden, border,
sidewalk, porch,
planter, or
container can go
from no color to
color, bare to
blooming,
instantly filled
with pretty
posies and
greenery before
the weather
hardly gets warm
– instant
gratification.
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Availability is no
longer a problem
either.
Practically every
place we already
drive to now has
bedding plants for
sale. Grocery
stores sell plants
– because they are
edible? Pharmacies
sell plants –
because they are
medicinal?
Hardware stores
sell plants –
because gardens
need outside
watering faucets?
I can understand
florists selling
plants – at least
flowers are their
business, although
how to grow them
probably isn’t.
Just drive up,
make your
selection, take
them home, plant
them, and voilla
– instant color
- fast food for
gardens. The
Pick-Me-Up
Greenhouse
partners prefer
to believe that
patronizing an
actual garden
store makes more
sense
(knowledgeable
clerks), and
easy stop and
shop is still an
option.
Some may ask how
I would define
“bedding
plants.” Bedding
plants are
generally
annuals that are
born and bred to
last one growing
season. One can
sprinkle in
early blooming
perennials, but
then they are
spent until next
spring. So
“bedding plants”
are defined and
selected on the
basis of their
ability to bloom
more or less
consistently
throughout the
spring and
summer and into
fall, hopefully.
Typically, they
aren’t used to
fill a
garden but to fill-in a
garden, added
accents among
bigger plants or
as transitional
color between
plants blooming
at different
times, or
fillers in small
places (often
still in their
pots), or to
provide color
while bulbs or
other plants are
gradually
filling in the
garden.
Just
to throw in a
little confusion,
some annuals re-seed
themselves and
so grow the next
season, or they
are hardy enough
and the winter
is mild enough
that the plant
doesn’t die and
they
over-winter.
But, I wouldn’t
count on that
happening in our
zone very often.
What
should you look for?
Always look for
healthy plants and
have some knowledge
of what to expect
from specific
plants. Are they sun
or shade lovers? Do
they like sandy
soil? Do they like
morning sun but sun
protection in the
afternoon (when the
day is the hottest –
so means plant them
on the east side of
the house)? Do they
thrive bunched up
with other plants or
do they prefer their
space? When
selecting flowers in
early spring,
remember these are
usually the annuals
that like cooler
weather to begin
with, and that’s why
they are blooming
right now. Although
they will bloom
throughout the
growing season to
some degree, most of
these varieties will
thrive again when
the weather gets
cooler in later
summer or if we have
a cool summer.
Pansies are an
example, as are
Dahlberg daisies and
alyssum. So don’t
give up on them just
because they slow
down through the
hottest part of the
summer. Just plant
other colorful,
warmth-loving
annuals amongst them
or let the taller
perennials provide
some protection
until then.
On the other hand, a
few featured spring
annuals will bloom
early, but really
thrive when the
weather gets warmer,
like marigolds and
rose moss (portulacca).
I have come to
realize that the
hardy and very
popular petunia has
its quirks along
these lines.
Petunias are
forcibly encouraged
to be blooming by
the start of the
season, but then
they languish and
get leggy. If you
have the courage to
prune them back
rather severely when
you first get them,
which allows the
plant to bush out
and re-grow during
the cooler part of
the spring, you’ll
be rewarded by the
time the weather
gets warm. The
petunias will have
had time to become
re-established and
really pop. And, try
as I do, I haven’t
found a petunia that
likes (thrives) in
shade.
Hanging baskets,
too, need to be
selected with the
idea in mind that
just because they
are blooming in
April, doesn’t mean
all plants in the
basket are going to
thrive all summer.
Plan on re-placing
some of the plants
at some point to
keep the basket
looking fresh.
Geraniums can’t
hardly be beat,
though, but if you
are tired of the red
geraniums (gorgeous
and classic), try
another color or
unusual hybrids
(simple to fancy
blooms, variegated
greens to leaves
with color or
ruffles).
A
Sunday afternoon
feature new to the
Pick-Me-Up
Greenhouse this year
will be the “Build
It Yourself” option.
Folks can bring
their pots and/or
containers (or you
can pick from our
selection), your
potting soil (or
we’ll sell you some
good quality potting
soil), select plant
material to meet
your needs and color
palettes (from our
shelves, mixing and
matching, getting
one or six, etc.),
and pot everything
right there in our
new potting shed
area. Fast Food for
the Garden(er). What
could be easier than
that!
Oddly, as I sit
writing this piece,
snow is drifting
down on the already
white covered
landscape outside by
studio window. But I
know spring is just
around the corner
because the robins
are home, the
daffodils and tulips
are four inches
above the ground
(some blooming), the
bud bumps on trees
are showing, and the
brown ground is
growing a green
beard.
I
know you
are out looking for
signs of spring, too, so
keep thinking flowers -
those wonderful colors,
that special.smell,
getting our hands in the
dirt…. ah-h-h.
For lucky me, all of
that wonderful plantness
is super concentrated
when the greenhouse gets
packed full of plant
material, and then I get
to open the door and
take it all in. On warm,
rainy days (water gently
pit-patting on the glass
roof), and it’s quiet, I
enjoy just sitting there
among the hanging
baskets and other plants
and imagine what it must
have been like in the
Garden of Eden.
How’s your garden
growing?
Bea Patterson
bp15624@alltel.net
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Bea's Flower "Buzz"
Sixth in a series by
Bea Patterson
“The Flower of Luv – the
Rose”
“Some people
are always grumbling because
roses have thorns. I am
thankful that thorns have
roses.”
Henry Van Dyke
Remember the phrase “And
the survey said…” from
the old television game
show? As our Pick-Me-Up
Greenhouse geared up for
the season one spring, I
got to thinking that it
would be interesting to
find out what flowers
are the most popular
with our customers. So,
I initiated an informal
survey and kept a
separate tally of
responses from men and
women. When asked what
they considered to be
their favorite flower,
“the survey said….the
rose!” Among the
men, it was about the
only one nominated, but
for women, the rose
usually came in
somewhere in their top
five.
One of my theories is
that generally men don’t
know many flower names
to begin with so maybe
the rose was named
because of familiarity
(having been noted so
often on the memo line
of checkbooks).
Be that as it may,
beyond loving the rose,
responses did not point
to a consensus on what
colors or kinds were the
most popular –
practically everything
was mentioned. But, I’ll
take the survey results
at face value, and
declare Rosa
rosaceae the
winner! and will not
contest its supremacy
because roses are truly
beautiful, versatile,
and highly recognizable.
What’s not to love?
Roses have great
attributes: mega
gorgeous color ranges,
heavenly fragrances
(sources for perfumes),
lots of “looks” (simple
to fancy), are location
adaptable (specimen
roses in cutting
gardens, climbing roses
for gazebo or trellis,
shrub types for fences,
hedge, or as accents,
miniatures for patios
and pots), practically
care-free to picky
special needs roses,
useful in crafts and
home décor (potpourri,
decorations, flower
arranging). And they
aren’t just pretty
faces; they are used
medicinally in salves,
lotions, teas, etc., and
birds like the rose hips
to feed from in the
winter.
Roses come with quite a
history. According to
fossil evidence, the
rose existed as far back
as 35 million years
ago. Genus Rosa
has 150 species spread
throughout the Northern
Hemisphere, from Alaska
to Mexico and including
northern Africa. The
name refers to its
color; rosa is
Latin for “red.” The
Persian word for rose,
gul, also meant
“flower” and was close
to ghut, the word
for “spirit.”
Roses were used as
symbols of war, love,
beauty, and politics.
During the 15th
century, the rose was
used as a symbol for the
factions fighting to
control England. The
white rose symbolized
York, and the red rose
symbolized Lancaster; as
a result, the conflict
became known as the “War
of the Roses.”
At one time
roses or
rose water
was used as
legal
tender, as
barter, and
for
payments. In
ancient
times,
exotic roses
were used in
erotic pagan
love rites
and
symbolized
excessiveness
and
privileges
of the rich.
As
Christianity
developed,
the rose
came to
symbolize
mystical and
spiritual
love, was
connected
with the
Virgin Mary
and with
Christ’s
blood, and
with the
crown of
thorns.
Roses are
still
associated
with
romantic
love, hope,
and even the
mystery of
life
itself.
Interestingly,
certain
roses have
become
linked with
specific
attributes.
I’ll just
mention a
few: Dog
rose -
pleasure &
pain; Green
rose –
Indicates “I
am from
Mars.”
(Wonder
where how
that one
came about);
Leaf rose –
Indicates
“You may
hope.”;
lavender
rose –
enchantment;
pink rose –
perfect
happiness,
secret love,
grace and
sweetness,
indecision;
dark pink
rose –
thankfulness;
peach rose –
immortality,
modesty; red
rose –
Indicates “I
love you…
respect you…
think you
are
beautiful.”;
tea rose –
Indicates
“I’ll always
remember.”;
single full
bloom roses
– Indicates
“I truly
love you.”;
bouquet of
full bloom
roses –
gratitude;
one yellow
rose with 11
red ones -
love and
passion;
dark crimson
rose –
mourning.
One of the
first roses
native to
Europe was
the
Apothecary
rose or Rosa gallica.
Healers
used them to
cure
everything
from
barrenness
to dog
bites. Also,
the yellow
rose came to
Europe from
Persia.
China roses
came to
Europe in
the 18th
century and
were very
popular
because they
bloomed
continually.
Among these
were the tea
roses, which
did not
smell like
tea but were
shipped in
boxes along
with tea.
After being
cross-bred
with Hybrid
Perpetuals,
this variety
eventually
became the
basis of
nearly all
our modern
roses.
Five of the
main rose
categories
are outlined
below.
Hybrid tea
roses –
tall,
long-stemmed
roses;
flowers one
to a stem;
in gardens,
usually
featured in
cutting
gardens or
as single
specimen
plants.
Floribundas –
large, showy
blossoms; blooms
more freely,
setting clusters
of blossoms on a
stem; good for
border planting.
Shrub roses
–
naturally
disease
resistance; grow
in a variety of
climates and
settings with a
minimum of care;
grows compactly;
very little
pruning
required; bloom
consistently
over a very long
season
Ground cover –
low growing and
cascades over
walls or as
ground covers in
perennial
gardens; great
at edge of beds
and in
containers.
Climbing roses –
produce long
canes that can
be trained to a
trellis, fence
or other support
While roses have
a well-deserved
picky
reputation, plan
ahead to
maximize your
enjoyment of
rose gardening.
1.
Select
varieties that
are appropriate
to our Zone #5A.
2. Select
a spot with at
least six hours
of sun in the
day, preferable
where the plants
will get early
morning sun so
the leaves will
dry off early in
the day, thereby
minimizing
diseases
problems.
3.
Select a
spot that
provides good
air circulation,
which will also
help minimize
disease
problems.
4.
Test the
soil and then
add supplements
that will
enhance the
needs your
particular rose.
5.
Water and
keep the soil
moistened to a depth
of 18 inches every
week during the
growing season. Test
the ground with a
screw driver or
piece of wire.
6.
Fertilize two
times a season: once
when new growth
firsts starts in the
spring and again in
mid-season. Choose
non-burning, natural
formulas that feed
the soil as well as
the plant.
7.
Prune and
deadhead
appropriately.
Pests love roses, but
they can be dealt with.
Remember, healthy,
growing roses are more
resistance to disease
than struggling ones.
q
Anti-transpirants
protect plants from
drying out and control
fungus by coating
leaves.
q
A mixture
of baking soda and
horticultural oil helps
control powdery mildew
and also works on black
spot:
q
1 rounded
tablespoon of baking
soda and 1 tablespoon
of horticultural oil
per gallon of water;
spray mixture
q
once a
week or after a heavy
rain; apply in early
morning and not at all
during hottest weather
because baking
q
soda can
burn leaves.
q
Sulfur-based fungicides
battles fungal diseases.
Don’t use when temps
exceed 90F.
q
Whole Neem
oil is a new product for
controlling black spot,
powdery mildew, and rust
spots as well as many
insects and mites.
Follow directions on the
bottle.
q
A strong
spray of water applied
in the morning (so
leaves will dry quickly)
knocks off pests.
q
Bt
(Bacillus thuringiensis)
is a microbial
insecticide that kills
only moth and butterfly
larvae and is harmless
to most other insects
and animals. However,
don’t spray throughout
the garden or
excessively. It won’t
discriminate between
pest caterpillars and
those of desirable moths
and butterflies.
q
Horticultural oil is a
more highly refined
version of traditional
“dormant” oils applied
to leafless trees and
shrubs in winter.
Horticultural or
“summer” oils control a
wide variety of rose
pests, including rose
scale and whitefly, also
soft-bodied pests, such
as aphids and their eggs
and spider mites. Don’t
use this oil when temps
rise about 90 degrees.
q
Insecticidal soaps work
on mite and insect
pests, particularly soft
bodied insects such as
aphids, immature scale, leafhoppers, mites, thrips, and whiteflies.
q
Neem oil
extracts provides
effective control of
insect pests. Neem is
not harmful to most
beneficial insects.
Happy Roses Day, Country
Gardeners!
How’s your garden
growing?
Bea Patterson
bp15624@alltel.net
______________________________________________________________________________________
"I Yearn for Yorrow"
Welcome,
again, country gardeners, to #5 in this series.
Spring
has sprung! We are suddenly reminded how hungry we are for
lush green grass, blooming trees, colorful spring flowers, and
opportunities to get out into God’s rich soil with rake and
hoe.
Most
gardeners have spent the winter months making plans. How early
can I get in those radishes, peas, and potatoes?
What new things are in that seed catalogue that just
came? Remember Mom’s white iris with its flags and falls
trimmed in white? Wonder if I could find that in the heirloom
garden catalogue? Wouldn’t some of those iris look really
great mixed in among those yellow plants that come up in the
corner garden? What do you think of putting in a water feature
next to the iris? How much do you think a fountain would cost?
We
all know the dreaming that takes place between gardening
seasons.
Ò
If you are a seasoned gardener, you have been investing in
perennials over the years. When spring comes, you don’t have
as much work ahead of you.
If you are new or novice gardener, you are in the
building mode – worlds of choices and ideas from which to
choose.
Whichever
category you fall into, YARROW has already been featured in
your garden or should be.
Ò
Yarrow belongs to the aster family, in the genus Achilea L.,
and species of Achillea millefolium L. or common yarrow, with
many additional varieties associated in that species.
Native
to Europe and Asia, yarrow was introduced to North America by
English soldiers during the Revolutionary War. Then it spread
quickly across America as people moved west.
Ò
Once one gets past the scientific stuff, yarrow are perennials
that can produce gold, white, yellow, red, or pink flower
clusters, thrive in full sun, are drought resistant, can grow
in any soil type if well-drained, propagate by seeds and root
division, can reach heights of 6” to 4’, thrive in zones 3
– 10 (our area of Nebraska is zone 5 – 5A).
They have delicate fern-like green-gray foliage which
also adds to the look of a garden.
Not
only are they attractive, they bloom abundantly in late spring
through June, and bloom moderately well throughout the summer
if spent blooms are dead-headed.
Ò
If you want to start yarrow from seed indoors, germination
time can be from 6 to 8 days when abundant light is available.
If dividing existing plants, do it in mid-spring when
temperatures are fairly warm, say above 70 degrees.
However, plants takes two years to become established,
so be patient.
Ò
But their usefulness does not end there. The blossom heads on
their long stems add punch to floral arrangements and as dried
flowers, they are super for use in autumn decorations.
Yarrow
can be mowed to form a highly competitive ground cover to
control soil erosion.
Ò
Historically, yarrow is known by many names, many of which
allude to its scientific names or ways it has been used.
“Milfoil” comes from its species name, which means
“thousand leafed.” Even its generic name of Achillea is
either linked to the Trojan wars leader Achilles, who treated
his wounded soldiers with yarrow, or linked to an individual
named “Achilles,” who has been credited as the
“discoverer” of the plant.
Yarrow
reduced inflammation and helped to stop bleeding, hence more
names like “Soldier’s Herb,” “Soldier’s Wound Wort”
(from the Crusades), “Knight’s Milfoil” (used for wounds
incurred during jousting bouts), “Nosebleed” (leaves used
as a nosebleed treatment), and “Carpenter’s Herb” (a
handy natural bandage).
In
Sweden, yarrow is called “Field Hop” and has been used in
the manufacture of beer (hence “hop”).
Because
of its fragrant aroma when the leaves are crushed, yarrow has
been called “Old Man’s Pepper” and used as snuff.
Obviously,
yarrow is considered a medicinal herb and therefore has been
used in astringents, as a stimulant or tonic (in herbal teas),
in hair shampoos (even credited to prevent baldness through
regular washings), to treat burns, for toothaches (fresh
leaves chewed), cramps, fevers, kidney disorders, skin
irritations, snakebites, cold remedies, just to mention a few.
Even a 1st century A.D. Greek physician is said to
have crushed the leaves and used the poultice for skin ulcers.
Not
that I have had any experience with any of these remedies, but
yarrow at least has an extensive history as a natural
cure-all. However, I’ll leave that to the pharmacists.
Ò
So, what more could one ask of a plant? Yarrow is easy to grow
in almost any sunny spot, has attractive foliage and blooms
during most or all of the summer, can be used as dried flower
in decorations or used as grown cover, and could even be
considered a medical marvel grown in the garden.
Ò
Yarrow seed packets are available in almost any store that
sells seeds, but easy on-line shopping can be done at
thegardenhelper.com or herbfresh.com or earlmay.com
Come
on now, fellow gardeners, the fun begins, let’s go for it!
Garden lovers rock!
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